Tsuetate Onsen

Tsuetate Onsen Moto-yu communal bath

Tsuetate Onsen, where inns line both banks of the Tsuetate River on the Kumamoto–Ōita border, claims 1,800 years of history as the bath water of the infant Emperor Ōjin. Moto-yu is the communal bath said to be its origin: a single half-open tub carved into the rock face beside the riverside promenade — mixed, free and open 24 hours, nothing more. The sodium-chloride water, cooled from a 98°C source, leaves the skin soft. Changing space is basic and screening minimal, so many people wear bathing garments or a wrapped towel; early morning or night is the best time. Combine it with a wander through the 'sedoya' back alleys and, in May–June, the 3,500 carp streamers strung across the river. About 50 minutes by bus from Hita Station.