Totsukawa Onsen

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Nara · Totsukawa OnsenTattoos: Ask ahead

Totsukawa Onsen Iori-no-yu

At the southern tip of Nara, directly opposite the Totsukawa Onsen bus center where Japan's longest local bus route (Yagi–Shingu) stops. A small all-timber bathhouse looking down on the Futatsuno dam lake. The whole village has pledged 'free-flowing spring water only', so nothing is recirculated. Free foot bath, hand bath and drinking fountain. Combine with the Kumano Kodo and Tanize suspension bridge.

Day-trip onsenPublic bathhouse (sento)Day use ¥600

Nara · Totsukawa OnsenTattoos: Ask ahead

Totsukawa Onsen Ikoi-no-yu

A village-run public bath on the shore of Futatsuno Dam lake in Totsukawa, the village that declared all its baths 100% free-flowing. Attached to a seniors' centre, it's plain but pours 70°C bicarbonate-chloride water straight in with no recirculation. Handy on Tuesdays when nearby Iori-no-yu is closed. ¥600, 9:00–21:00, closed only Jan 1–2. Five minutes' walk from Totsukawa-Onsen bus stop.

Day-trip onsenPublic bathhouse (sento)Day use ¥600

Nara · Totsukawa OnsenTattoos: Ask ahead

Tōsenji Onsen Izumi-yu (Totsukawa)

The village-run public bath of Tōsenji Onsen, the oldest spring in Totsukawa. pH 9.1 alkaline sulfur water flows fresh from the source even through the taps, leaving a faint sulfur scent and slippery skin. Just a stone open-air bath facing the gorge and an indoor tub—simple and ¥600. Handy on Route 168 en route to the Tanize suspension bridge or Kumano Hongū Taisha.

Day-trip onsenPublic bathhouse (sento)Day use ¥600

Nara · Totsukawa OnsenTattoos: Ask ahead

Tōsenji Onsen Taki-no-yu public bath

Near the village office of Totsukawa, Japan's largest village, this is the public bath of Tōsenji Onsen, the oldest spring in the village. True to Totsukawa — the first place in Japan to declare all its baths 100% free-flowing — the roughly 60°C sulphur water is cooled without dilution and left to overflow. As the name suggests, the big draw is the streamside open-air bath at the bottom of a long staircase, where you soak facing a small waterfall; the water runs hot. There are also an indoor bath and sauna. ¥800 for adults, open 08:30–20:00, closed Thursdays. The lunch-only diner is known for its 'dam curry'. The nearby Izumi-yu is ¥100 cheaper, but come here for the waterfall. A remote spot about 3 h 40 min from Yamato-Yagi Station on Japan's longest local bus route.

Day-trip onsenPublic bathhouse (sento)Day use ¥800