Bessho Onsen, Ueda

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Nagano · Bessho Onsen, UedaTattoos: Ask ahead

Bessho Onsen Ishiyu public bath

One of the three public 'outer baths' of Bessho Onsen near Ueda, the spa village nicknamed 'Kamakura of Shinshū'. Ishiyu is famed as the hidden bath of warrior Sanada Yukimura in Ikenami Shōtarō's novel Sanada Taiheiki; its tub is built around natural bedrock, filled free-flowing with faintly sulphurous, mildly alkaline water. Open 6:30–21:30 (last entry 21:00), closed Tuesdays, a modest ¥300 with free lockable lockers. Pair it with the other two — Ōyu (closed 1st & 3rd Wed) and Daishiyu (closed 1st & 3rd Thu) — plus Kitamuki Kannon temple and the National Treasure octagonal pagoda of Anrakuji, all on foot. Ten minutes' walk from Bessho-Onsen Station on the Ueda Dentetsu line.

Day-trip onsenPublic bathhouse (sento)Day use ¥300

Nagano · Bessho Onsen, UedaTattoos: Ask ahead

Bessho Onsen Daishiyu

A public bath of Bessho Onsen named after the monk Ennin, known as Jikaku Daishi, who is said to have bathed here. It draws source no. 3 straight through with no recirculation and opens at 6:00 in the morning, so it is good for an early soak. It costs 300 yen for adults and closes on Thursdays. Standing in the middle of the spa street, it is a convenient base for walking the three outer baths with the Kannon temple and the great gate.

Public bathhouse (sento)Natural hot springDay use ¥300