Gokuraku Onsen, Takaharu

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Miyazaki · Gokuraku Onsen, TakaharuTattoos: Ask ahead

Gokuraku Onsen Takumi-no-Yado, Takaharu

The lone inn at Gokuraku Onsen, in the hills of Takaharu on the eastern foot of the Kirishima range, with water distinctive enough to be listed among Japan's 'hundred famous springs'. It is a carbonated iron spring (carbon dioxide-iron-calcium-bicarbonate), and the speciality is alternating between the free-flowing tubs, turned rust-red on contact with air, and a 'source cold bath' filled with the highly carbonated mineral water straight from the ground. Sitting in the cold fizzing water as tiny bubbles cling to your skin, then returning to the warm bath, is a routine sauna lovers adore. There is also an open-air bath, a sauna and a reservable private bath. Day bathing: adults ¥600, children ¥250, with long hours from 07:00 to 21:00 (last entry 20:30), except Wednesdays when it pauses 10:00–15:00 for cleaning. A dining room serves Kyushu mountain-and-river cuisine, and private rest rooms and overnight stays suit a cure-style visit. About 15 minutes by car from JR Takaharu Station or Takaharu IC. A hidden gem for Ebino Plateau and Kirishima trips.

Day-trip onsenOnsen ryokanDay use ¥600

Miyazaki · Gokuraku Onsen, TakaharuTattoos: Ask ahead

Yunomoto Onsen, Takaharu

A lone hot spring inn at Kamuta in Takaharu, Miyazaki, on the eastern foot of the Kirishima range. A therapeutic bathing spot since the Meiji era, its pride is an extremely carbonated spring with 1,314 mg/kg of free carbon dioxide. Ease into the unheated, chilly carbonated pool and fine bubbles cling to every inch of skin – a concentration said to equal 10–25 bath-fizz tablets. The heated indoor and open-air baths glow golden with iron-rich cloudy water, and alternating between them and the cold spring is the house ritual; a drinking fountain lets you taste the sharply fizzy, iron-flavoured source too. Day bathing costs ¥650 for adults and ¥300 for ages 3–12, 10:00–21:00 (last entry 20:30), closed as a rule on the first and third Wednesdays (subject to change). Day-rest rooms, tatami rooms and detached cottages for overnight stays, and meals of local produce are available. About 10 minutes by car from Takaharu IC on the Miyazaki Expressway, with parking for about 60 cars. Combine it with Kirishima Shrine, a climb of Takachiho-no-mine or the Ebino plateau.

Day-trip onsenOnsen ryokanDay use ¥650