Nozawa Onsen

O-yu (Nozawa outer bath)

The centerpiece of Nozawa's 13 public baths, a traditional bathhouse in the middle of the village. Local 'yunakama' associations have cleaned it daily since the Edo period; payment is a donation in the box at the door. Two pools, hot and 'mild' — though even the mild one exceeds 42°C. Adding cold water is bad manners: rinse first, then keep soaks short. No soap or shampoo.

Ogama Onsen Park Furusato-no-yu

In Nozawa, where 13 outer baths are free (donation), this is the only paid day facility with showers, shampoo and an open-air bath. A handsome building with a curved gable, hot and mild indoor pools and a stone outdoor bath — the fallback when the outer baths are too hot or you want a proper wash.