Inunakiyama Onsen Fudōguchikan
A long-established ryokan at the gateway to Inunakiyama Onsen, about 30 minutes by car from Kansai Airport and the only place in Osaka Prefecture to call itself a spa 'village'. Inunakiyama is a Shugendō holy mountain said to have been opened by En no Gyōja; the gorge leading to Shippōryū-ji temple is dotted with waterfalls and ascetic training sites and is listed among Osaka's hundred finest green spots. In the indoor bath and the open-air bath facing the stream you soak in soft, clear simple water (sodium-bicarbonate-chloride) to the sound of the river. Day bathing: adults ¥900, children ¥400, 11:00–21:00 (last entry 20:00), irregular closures. A reservable private open-air bath (¥2,750 for 60 minutes) and day plans with lunch are offered; numbers may be limited when busy. About 30 minutes by bus from JR Hineno or Nankai Izumisano stations to 'Inunakiyama', right by the stop. An onsen before or after a Kansai Airport flight, or a half-day escape from Osaka city.