Shirogane-yu (Ginzan communal bath)

What it is like

Ginzan Onsen is the village of multi-storey wooden inns from the Taishō and early Shōwa eras lining both banks of the Ginzan River, lit by gas lamps at night. Shirogane-yu, near the entrance to the village, is its only public bath. Built in 2001 to a design by Kuma Kengo — architect of Tokyo's new National Stadium — the triangular building clad in black vertical slats stands out from, yet harmonises with, the retro streetscape. Inside are two bathrooms, one per floor, alternating between men and women daily: the upper room is bright with a large window and indirect lighting, the lower one windowless and cave-like, and which you get is luck of the draw. The water is the same sulphurous chloride-sulphate spring as the inns', flowing hot and untreated. Because most Ginzan inns do not accept day bathers (or only for a couple of hours at midday), this is the one reliable place for day-trippers to bathe — but with tubs for only three or four people, expect queues and early closing at peak times.

Before you go

• Only 3–4 bathers at a time; when full, wait outside as the sign at the door instructs. Waits are longest on weekends in autumn-leaf season (late Oct–early Nov) and the snowy months of January–February.
• Last entry is 15:30 but may be brought forward when crowded or for maintenance — mornings are the safe bet.
• Pay ¥500 in cash, ideally exact change.
• The water is hot (sometimes 43–44°C); you are invited to add cold water from the tap yourself.
• Soap and shampoo are provided but there is no hair dryer. Towels are sold for ¥200 (bring your own); no bath towels.
• Valuables go in the dial-lock lockers; there are no large key lockers.
• No explicit tattoo policy is posted; it is a small community bath, so be discreet.
• The free 'Waraku' foot bath by the river is a good way to pass any waiting time.

Access and surroundings

From Ōishida Station (Yamagata Shinkansen) the Obanazawa city bus (Ginzan line) takes about 40 minutes to the Ginzan Onsen terminus, then 5 minutes' walk to the village entrance. Only 5–6 buses run a day, so check times; a reservation-only shared taxi also runs from Yamagata Airport. By car it is about 25 minutes from Obanazawa IC via Route 347; vehicles are banned from the village, so park at the shared car parks before it (capacity shrinks under winter snow) and walk. Within reach are Shirogane Falls, the old silver-mine tunnel (open roughly May–Oct), the Taishō Roman-kan and the listed Notoya Ryokan. The village is loveliest at dusk when the gas lamps come on — but Shirogane-yu closes at 4 pm, so bathe during the day.