Iizaka Onsen Sabako-yu

Where Basho bathed — the origin of an Oshu spa, a 44 °C communal bath from 6 a.m.

Iizaka Onsen, in the north of Fukushima city with ryokan lining both banks of the Surikami River, is counted with Naruko and Akiu among the “three great spas of Oshu”, and is known for a legend of Yamato Takeru healing his wounds here and for the record of the poet Matsuo Basho staying and bathing in 1689 on his “Narrow Road to the Deep North”. Sabakoyu is where Basho is said to have soaked — the oldest of Iizaka’s nine communal baths and the symbol of the town. The name is said to derive from “Sawako”, a place name in a poem by the Kamakura-era monk Saigyo; the present building, from 1993, recreates the Meiji-era bathhouse in hiba, zelkova and cypress with granite bathrooms — until that rebuild it was Japan’s oldest wooden communal bath. Inside is one indoor bath per gender, minimal showers and washing places, and no soap or shampoo — bring your own. The alkaline simple spring rises at 51 °C and fills the tub at about 44 °C; “hot is Iizaka” is the local tradition, so the trick is to go in slowly feet first after dousing yourself the local way to acclimatise. At ¥400 and open from 6:00, it suits a morning bath for ryokan guests or the first stop on a day trip 25 minutes by train from Fukushima Station; a statue of Basho and a free footbath stand alongside. With the Fukushima Kotsu Iizaka Line’s “Yumeguri” ticket (return fare plus communal-bath entry) you can cheaply continue to other baths such as Hachiman-no-yu, Hakoyu (two tubs, tepid and hot) and Dosen-no-yu. Closed Mondays (open on holidays). Iizaka is also famous for radium eggs and round “enban” gyoza, and pairs with the peach-blossom park Hanamomo-no-sato (April) and Fukushima fruit picking (June–November).

Tips & cautions

- 6:00–21:00 (last entry 20:40), closed Mondays (open on holidays). Some sites still show old information such as 22:00 or ¥200 — go by the on-site notice.

- 44 °C is hot — douse thoroughly, and take several short dips rather than forcing it. Ask before adding cold water if locals are in.

- No soap or shampoo, minimal showers — you wash by scooping water from the tub.

- Bring a towel (sold too). Lockers are small — carry few valuables.

- Tattoos: communal bath with no confirmed policy — be courteous and ask.

- The “Yumeguri” ticket (sold at Fukushima Station) saves on train plus baths.

- Early morning is locals’ time — keep quiet and make room.

- Afterwards, Iizaka’s round enban gyoza (mostly evenings), radium eggs and the night view from the Surikami River bridges.

Getting there

~5 min on foot from Iizaka-Onsen Station on the Fukushima Kotsu Iizaka Line (Yuzawa 32, Iizaka-machi, Fukushima). ~25 min by train from JR Fukushima Station (Tohoku Shinkansen). By car ~10 min from Fukushima-Iizaka IC on the Tohoku Expressway; use the free lot on the former Iizaka branch-office site. Tel. 024-542-5223 (Iizaka Onsen Tourist Association).