Busshozan Onsen Tenpyo-yu

A hot spring like an art gallery — Takamatsu’s free-flowing spa by tram, ¥700 until midnight

Busshozan Onsen Tenpyo-yu is a day-spa opened in 2005 in an old temple town 12 minutes’ walk from Busshozan Station on the Kotoden tram in southern Takamatsu, Kagawa. With its gallery-like architecture of white walls, timber and large windows (designed by Shohei Oka) it is often called “the most stylish neighbourhood onsen in Japan”. Unusually for Takamatsu, every tub is free-flowing: the sodium bicarbonate-chloride water — silky beauty water with a hint of salt — is heated but never recirculated. Each side has several indoor tubs (hot, tepid, lie-down) and several courtyard rotenburo, and sitting under the low eaves gazing at the sky, you feel the season’s light and wind exactly as the design intends. There is no sauna, but the tatami lounge doubles as a second-hand bookshop, and the café serves ice cream and light meals such as udon, so lounging with a book after your bath is the local culture. Admission is a flat ¥700 for adults regardless of day or time; open 11:00 to midnight on weekdays (from 9:00 at weekends and holidays, last entry 23:00), closed Tuesdays. From Takamatsu’s sightseeing hubs (Ritsurin Garden, the Seto Inland Sea island ferries at Takamatsu port) it is 15 minutes by tram plus a walk, so it draws travellers who eat Sanuki udon in the evening and come for a last bath before midnight, Setouchi Triennale visitors, and people returning from Kotohira Shrine. Busshozan itself has sprouted renovated cafés and shops along the approach to Honen-ji temple, making a “bath plus town stroll” half-day well worth recommending.

Tips & cautions

- Weekdays 11:00–24:00, weekends and holidays 9:00–24:00 (last entry 23:00); closed Tuesdays (next day if a holiday).

- Flat ¥700 — no weekend surcharge. Bring a towel or buy/rent.

- No sauna; the cool source means the tepid tub runs mild — a long-soak place.

- The rotenburo have low eaves and are made for sitting; atmospheric even in rain.

- Tattoos: no confirmed policy — ask at the desk (it is a community-minded venue).

- Check the last Kotoden tram (Busshozan → Takamatsu-Chikko in the 23:00 hour); a taxi is about ¥2,500 if you miss it.

- The books in the lounge are for sale; the ice cream is a favourite.

- Evenings are busy — daytime or after 22:00 is calmer.

Getting there

~12 min on foot east of Busshozan Station (Kotoden Kotohira Line), Busshozan-cho Otsu 114-5, Takamatsu, Kagawa. ~15 min by Kotoden from Takamatsu-Chikko, a 5-min walk from JR Takamatsu Station. By car ~15 min from Takamatsu-Nishi or Takamatsu-Chuo IC on the Takamatsu Expressway; free parking. Tel. 087-889-7750.